Sunday, July 20, 1997

Austin becoming capital of restaurants

AUSTIN (AP) - Austin's not only the state's political capital.

In the one of Texas' fastest-growing areas, there's now one restaurant for every 320 people in the five-county metro area.

That's more restaurants per capita than in Houston (one per 360 people), San Antonio (332) and Dallas (380), making Austin the state's restaurant capital, too.

But with every new restaurant opening, a closing could be down the line.

Two weeks ago, the downtown Mustang Diner closed its metallic doors for good.

Owner Greg Winborn said profits were too slim for the amount of work needed. He said customers - expecting diner-type food - were surprised by the price and menu selection, including venison and chicken-fried tuna, but no chili-fries.

Last year, 780 restaurants opened. Nearly half as many, 302, closed.

Even so, with 3,650 restaurants, there are 1,000 more eateries in the area now than there were in 1994.

For those that manage to keep their doors open, the Austin eating news offers a mixed plate.

Nearly $2 billion will be spent at restaurants around the capital city this year, an 18.7 percent increase. But with more choices, researchers say restaurants need to do more to make themselves stand out.

"If customers don't get what they want, they will go somewhere else," said Denise Grasso, of the Texas Restaurant Association. "Restaurants really have to go above and beyond now when servicing customers."

One way many restaurants have looked to securing loyalty from Austin eaters is to promote "eater-tainment," including music and promotions.

Other eateries focus on atmosphere and portions.

"You have to work at finding your niche and being the best in that niche," said Larry Peridido, head chef at Brio Vista. The restaurant bills itself as serving contemporary American food. It is located near one of the city's upscale shopping centers on the edge of Austin's foothills.

On the other end of the spectrum is Matt's B-B-Q, an expanding joint in a south Austin strip mall. Owner Matthew Madlock says he offers plenty of a quality product that brings customers back.

"We're doing a little better every day," Madlock said.